By Paul: It’s been so long since I have written anything, and so much has transpired that I have trouble starting. But before I get distracted and my inspiration vanishes like the humpback whale spouts we frequently see, I will put something down about my thoughts of our trip to Haida Gwaii. First of all I want to thank Jimmy Reid for making the trip out to see us from Florida. His boating skills, weather and routing collaborations and his nack for always popping an, after anchor down, IPA of the day were so much fun. He was greatly appreciated and we miss his presence onboard. Jim joined us in Ketchikan, where we surprised our other high school friends, Tom and Dina Butt, who were departing. What a great, fun surprise; and a nice time in Ketchikan.
Jimmy made three large crossings with us. The 73 mile crossing from Ketchikan to Prince Rupert across Dixon Entrance and the two 80 mile crossings of Hecate Strait. Jimmy introduced me to the weather app, Predict Wind, which we used along with the ever cautious and conservative, weather Canada web site I was using; With his aid we made some pretty good decisions, adjusted our schedules and kept the boat together without shaking things up, to much. But after all it is a 38 ft boat.
Hecate Strait is a formidably 12 hour crossing that gives everyone pause, with good reason. But it takes you to a very different place. An Island isolated, geographically, biologically and culturally changed by the first encounters with europeans; decimated by small pox, with the loss of 95% of their population, most of their villages and way of life. The Haida were complicit in their demise, as well. They readily sold their sea otter pelts for renewed riches, which directly contributed to the Haida’s rich artistic contributions. Affluent chiefs put on more potlatches and commissioned more totems. The potlatches were a great feast of gift giving and an interesting distribution of wealth. But alas with the loss of the sea otter and the influx of diseases, everything crashed in the late 1800’s.
It was humbling and inspiring at the same time. We got to witness Gwaii Haanas National Park; with its Culturally significant Heritage sites. Culminating with the furthest south and most remote site of SGaang Gwaii with its still standing 200 year old totems. We visited with five very different Haida Watchman five different sites and got some great historical perspectives and recent insights. Gwaii Haanas with its unlogged and interesting forest; racked by wind and storms; quiet anchorages, saw whales and spawning salmon.
The memorable Burnaby Passage with its zig zag passage and my full astern, bow thruster rock avoidance maneuver. So grateful for my mate Becky for her bow watch and my running mate Jimmy for watching the ranges and getting me back on course. Sometimes with a current pushing you and three hard right to hard left maneuvers in a row, it take three sets of eyes to keep you square. Grateful that the water there is very clear. We actually tackled Burnaby twice, the second time with an opposing current which was much more manageable and with a mark on the chart for the rock. We left Haida Gwaii with a great sense of gratitude for the blessing of the opportunity to be there.
We visited a very welcoming people with a renewed purpose of sustaining a culture. There has been recent government recognition of the right to the Haida people to their lands, and there is a new awareness of pride and significance as to what that means. A beautiful place that is in flux. Most of the large timbers are gone, the fishing is a fraction of what it was. It will be interesting to see what they can do to sustain themselves. The isolation and beauty will draw many, but the cultural heritage sites are numbered in years. The culture allows for them to return to the land, one only hopes that the attraction won’t diminish.